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Definition
In its rough state, a diamond's beauty is well concealed. Through
cutting, the magnificent optical beauty of a diamond is revealed.
A diamond cutter's challenge is to balance beauty with weight
retention from the rough diamond crystal. In the best-case scenario,
approximately 50% of the weight is lost from the original crystal
in the cutting process.
Because size is important to many consumers, often cutters sacrifice
diamond beauty in order to save weight, maximizing the size of
the finished diamond. Note that cut is also referred to as make.
Shapes:
When the term "cut" is mentioned, most consumers think of shape.
But, shape and cut are different. Diamonds are cut and fashioned
in different shapes, including round brilliant, pear, oval, marquise,
emerald cut (rectangular), heart, and triangle.
The most popular shape is the round brilliant. The other shapes
are referred to as fancy-shapes.
Round brilliant diamonds retain less weight from the rough diamond
crystal and are generally more valuable than fancy-shaped diamonds.
Optical Beauty:
The way a diamond reflects and refracts light is dazzling to
the beholder. There are four factors that determine the optical
beauty of a diamond: luster, brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation.
Luster
The quantity and quality of light reflecting from the surfaces
of a diamond.
Brilliance
The amount of white light returned to the eye from the diamond.
Dispersion
The amount of rainbow colors returned to the eye from within
the diamond.
Scintillation
The sparkle, which is the combination luster, brilliance and
dispersion when there is movement by the wearer or light source.
Ideal Cut
A diamond cut to optimal proportions, with optimal polish and
symmetry, with the most weight loss to produce maximum luster,
brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. Diamonds cut to this
standard are the most valuable, with only 5% of the round brilliant
diamonds on the market cut to this standard.
Well-Cut
Diamonds that have very good optical beauty that fall just outside
of the parameters of Ideal Cut diamond. These diamonds are priced
less than Ideal cuts because they are not as rare.
Deep Cut
This diamond will appear smaller than it weighs because it's
weight is retained in the depth. It is cut with a deep pavilion
(bottom of the diamond) that does not reflect light back through
the crown (top of the diamond). Light leaks out the pavilion producing
a dark appearing diamond that lacks beauty. These diamonds are
sometimes called nailheads due to their dark, face-up appearance.
Shallow Cut
Diamonds that are cut with shallow pavilions that do not reflect
light back through their crown. The light leaks out from the pavilion,
producing a washed-out or watery appearance that is not beautiful.
Weight is retained in the diameter, making the diamonds appear
larger than they weight. These diamonds are sometimes called fisheyes,
due to unsightly reflections in the crown area.
Bow-Tie
Effect dark area in the center of some fancy-shaped diamonds.
A large bow-tie in the center of a fancy shaped diamond detracts
from beauty and lowers the value.
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